Guild Wars 2

Hello!
My micro: AMD FX8120
GPU: Shappire ATi HD7850
My problem is the next:

Since I bought gw2 my common temps in pve where 55-60°C, reaching 62°C in wvw (wich is the max safe temp for my micro).
2 days ago I change the termal compound (it’s a local trademark from argentina, no chance to buy another trademark) and now I’m getting 60-65°C normally and 66°C in wvw. Note my micro was OC to 3.4ghz
Without OC (3.1ghz) im getting 59-62°C and didn’t want to check wvw.
My tower have one 80mm fan and one 120mm getting air inside and two 80mm ones getting heat out.
My room have 20-25°C and the cpu is at 30-45°C when idle.
The cpu heatsink is a stock one (it reach 6k rpm) and there is no way I can get a new one now.
The GPU reach 60°C with no OC, but the max safe temp for this one is 80°C (+/-)

¿Do you have any idea about what I can do in the system or any cheap mod?
Im already thanking you a lot for reading this.
Kind regards!

Why cant u get a different aftermarket CPU cooler ?
Have u tried re-applying the TIM, maybe u put to much on (its a common mistake).

FYI the FX 8120 can easily be OC’d past 4ghz, infact many people aim for a moderate OC of 4.2 to 4.5ghz. Get a half good CPU cooler and ull be sorted, Stock coolers suck.

The only other thing u can do is undervolt it on its stock setitngs or try get a lower voltage OC.

Sounds like improper mounting or to much TIM used on the CPU, you only want to use a pea sized amount on the CPU. Also, as suggested, what core voltages are you running? If it is set to auto that could be the problem, mobos tend to dump allot of unneeded voltage when OCing, you need to make sure this is in spec.

Do your research online for Overclocking guides for your Motherboard & CPU.
Here is a good place to start
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=688663

And yes I agree with the rest sounds EXACTLY like improper TIM application. (and use the stock cooler for a doorstop or to hold your window open… bout all they are good for)

Thanks for the repplies.
I cant buy a new cooler because now I have like 20 dollars at my wallet.
The problem is not the TIM aplication (I know how to apply it, did it a houndread times, seen a lot of videos and take a leason about it), but may be the TIM itself.
Now I’m in stock super-default settings 3.1ghz – 1.3680V with gw2 at background and 59°C, and I started the pc 4 minutes ago. I think the core voltage is at default auto, don’t really know a lot about the propper voltage for the cpu core speed.

And for an update, the fans I say that was 80mm are instead 120mm and the 120 one is a 160 one, :P little mistake.

1.36v is a little high for stock volts, I know people well over 4GHz with less. Try setting it to 1.25v and see if it is stable and set LLC to the lowest setting. If it is not stable at 1.25v work your way up until it is stable. What brand is the TIM? Almost all TIM’s are the same when we are talking about brand names, it will only be the TIM if it is of unknown make.

You can also try changing the cooling settings to a performance mode and less about silence.

TinkTinkPOOF.9201:

1.36v is a little high for stock volts, I know people well over 4GHz with less. Try setting it to 1.25v and see if it is stable and set LLC to the lowest setting. If it is not stable at 1.25v work your way up until it is stable. What brand is the TIM? Almost all TIM’s are the same when we are talking about brand names, it will only be the TIM if it is of unknown make.

You can also try changing the cooling settings to a performance mode and less about silence.

I will try to downgrade the voltage today, thanks.
The TIM is this one: (it’s in spanish since is an Argentinian trademark)
Electroquimica D LTA, its a silicon one in the same packaging like all the others (like an inyector). It cost me 20 pesos (arround 5 dollars 1 year ago).

You need a proper cooler for that cpu,the stock one doesn’t cut it.I have the same cpu as you have overclocked at 4.8ghz volt at 1.38. with a corsair h100 cooler.Cpu temps barely reaching 45c – 48c when playing guild wars 2.Also try looking in your bios to manually change your cpu fan speed,and up that speed a bit ( stock coolers are loud though ),so instead of Automatic set it to manual with the speed you want it to go.Also try looking for LLC in your bios,make sure its not set to Extreme or Ultra high,wich can give your voltages a boost,making your pc a nice little hot oven.

Well, now im done thanks for all the answers.
I downgrade the voltage to 1.25 for cpu and 1.2 for cpu north bridge.
With that, I did an OC with only the multiplier to 4ghz and now I have a 55°C with a lot of people arround when i’m playing, 48-52°C while in pve.
The LLC in my BIOS only have an ON/OFF option.
I will stay with this until I can buy a better cooler, since the mobo temp is arround 30°C all the time, it doesn’t seems to be a bad circulation of air.

You can turn LLC off and see if it is still stable, LLC is what ups the voltage under load, if you have a very low voltage sometimes it is needed for the bump at load to keep stable, while allowing a lower idle voltage, so turning off if it is on now should lower temps even more, though it might not be stable under load, in which case you would need to turn it back on. I don’t know what mobo or chipset you are using, but it will not change core temps, so it might be best to leave north bridge voltages alone, they often don’t get very hot under stock volts, and under volting it might limit how low you can go on the CPU voltage, which is the bigger problem here temp wise. Play around with the voltages and run IBT after each change, see how low you can get with it and still stay stable.

The stock coolers are just fine, however they should not be expected to keep up with OCing, as you are putting the CPU outside of its TDP at that point. There are many good cheap coolers, often times under 20 bucks, the down side to this is where you live, as prices outside the USA are often much higher for computer parts.

Yes ThinkThink, the LLC works as you said xD
And since i’m from Argentina, the prices are a lot higher for all electronics , plus I have to pay 80% more for the import taxes. I prefer that because country made electronics sucks.
My rig cost my 6k pesos (1,2k dollars more or less) and that money is very hard to get.

I’ll keep testing with the voltage to have optimal temps, since I noticed not much improvement with 4ghz (comming from 3.1) with only multiplier overclocked.

Hi Nehuy,

I would double check your thermal compound, you mentioned it was silicone based, which is pretty typical of cheap thermal compounds. For high performance (for situations like overclocking) you’ll want a silver based compound as its thermal conductivity is far higher.

For example the approximate thermal conductivities of typical compounds in W/(m·K) are:

Ceramic (silicon based) compound: between ~0.5 – 10
Metalic (silver based) compound: higher than ~400

Voltages are also important, the higher the voltage the higher the temperature. A higher than needed voltage will cause the cpu to run hotter than normal. I would check the manufacturer website for specifications on the cpu and check to make sure you are using the correct voltage. Also “Auto” settings can typical give a higher voltage than needed on motherboards, so set your voltages manually.

Also if you are overclocking and increasing your voltage to do so, then you’ll want to have Loadline Calibration (LLC) enabled!

Nehuy.3562:

Yes ThinkThink, the LLC works as you said xD
And since i’m from Argentina, the prices are a lot higher for all electronics , plus I have to pay 80% more for the import taxes. I prefer that because country made electronics sucks.
My rig cost my 6k pesos (1,2k dollars more or less) and that money is very hard to get.

I’ll keep testing with the voltage to have optimal temps, since I noticed not much improvement with 4ghz (comming from 3.1) with only multiplier overclocked.

Don’t just test it out on Guild wars though,try some other games aswell to see your OC difference,Guild wars can be a bit weird when it comes to that..