Guild Wars 2

When I play Star Wars The Old Republic at 1980×1020 everything set to high, my graphic card ( radeon 5770 HD) max’s out at about 82 c. When I try to play GW2 at 1980×1020 with the quality set to auto detect, the card gets so hot it crashes to black screen. The only way I can play the game is to set the resolution to 1280 × 72 and set the the display to 16 bit color and set the quality to performance. Then the card hovers around 80 c.

What in the world is the game doing that is causing that much heat? My graphics driver is updated and I’ve opened my computer to make sure there was no restricted air flow to the the graphics card.

Sounds like your 5770 has a major dust problem. Also do you mean 1920×1080?
My old Radeon HD 5770 never went higher than 46.

Games will not directly cause hardware to overheat.

however programs such as EVGA Precision can IF it is increasing the voltage above what the card should be at and what the default cooler can handle.

So check ur cards current running voltage. Also check the card physicaly for dust, make sure the fans are working. Check/create a custom fan profile using a program Like EVGA Precision.

If all that fails then apply new TIM to the GPU.

If that fails then u have a problem.

SolarNova.1052:

Games will not directly cause hardware to overheat.

however programs such as EVGA Precision can IF it is increasing the voltage above what the card should be at and what the default cooler can handle.

So check ur cards current running voltage. Also check the card physicaly for dust, make sure the fans are working. Check/create a custom fan profile using a program Like EVGA Precision.

If all that fails then apply new TIM to the GPU.

If that fails then u have a problem.

What he said.

But what I would do is uninstall all the AMD software/drivers, and uninstall stuff like MSI Afterburner(or whatever you MIGHT be using for Overclocking). Pull the Card from your Computer and check the Fan and make sure the Heatsink is still firmly attached (some of the 5770’s used Plastic Clips to hold the heatsink in place, if the card is overheating like that maybe one of the Clips came loose?)

Then Air dust the card to make sure there is no dust and buildup around the card. Air dust your PCI-E slot, and the power Connector on the back of the card then reseat the card and reinstall your drivers.

And with default settings, run your game(s) and test for Temps (GPU-Z>Sensor tab).

Games could make the card overheat if it isn’t cooled well enough.

It really sounds like a dust/airflow issue; pull the card out and get all of the dust out, then check the heatsink/fan as outlined by Squishy.

I don’t think EVGA Precision would work for an AMD card since EVGA is exclusively NVidia…

Also just to clarify, ATI Radeon HD 5770 hates overclocking with an extreme passion. If the core clock is higher than 825 MHz and the RAM on it is higher than 1200 MHz, you will have problems. Juniper XT had this problem across the board.

“Games will not directly cause hardware to overheat.”

I’ve seen this in a couple of places. Yet changing the in game graphic settings changes the temperature of the card. How do you figure the software couldn’t cause a card to overheat? If you change the settings and make the card cooler, and you again change the settings and make the card hotter, the software is affecting the temp.

“Also do you mean 1920×1080?” Yes

“Sounds like your 5770 has a major dust problem. Also do you mean 1920×1080?
My old Radeon HD 5770 never went higher than 46.”

It really doesn’t. I inspected it and it has no problems with other games. Just searching ( google) “GW2 Black screen crash” gives so many results. Now pick another game and search it with black screen crash and see if you get as many. Something is wrong in the graphics code.

Ill put it this way then.

Your graphics card shold be able to run at max usuage without overheating.
Different bench programs and games utilize the card differently, so some programs/games running the card at max will give different temps than others.
But again, graphics cards are designed to run at max without issue.
A game like GW2 is simply using the card more so than the otherg ame(s) uv tried, the problem is, somthing is wrong with ur card, becouse its temperatures are rising to high.
It could be a variety of things that are wrong. The fans might not be going fast enough, the heatsink may be dirty, the heatsink may not be seated properly, the TIM may have dried up, the GPU voltage may be to high for some reason..etc.

For example:
I’ve recently had to put my old 560ti back into my computer becouse my 780 has become deffective and its being RMA’d. When i installed it my card decided (likely due to PrecisionX being preinstalled with 780 settings) to run at its max allowable voltage of 1.15v, when its meant to be a 0.987, needles to say it was getting toasty at 80-90c even with max fan speed. Thankfully i noticed this and returned the voltage to normal and now its cool around 60-70c at 65% fan speed. I tested the voltage and temps and noticed the temps drasticaly reduced as soon as the voltage droped to 1.025v and below..im talking 15c from 1.038 to 1.025/1.012.

Anyway point is, the game isnt directly causing it, its just putitng load on the GPU. The only software that can directly cause issue are those that control fan speeds and voltage.

Try running Unigine Valley benchmark, leave it going for a bit and see what ur temps do.

Evga only makes NV cards, but Precision is not of their own, rather just like MSI it is a reskin of riva tuner. So unless Evga changed something from the last time I had an AMD card it should work with AMD, however it is not uncommon for mfg’s to lock down software.

With that said, I like MSI better, as the last time I used both, MSI had more options unlocked and is a cleaner UI and less flash, it gives you the info and settings you want/need without going over board on eye candy.

“Try running Unigine Valley benchmark, leave it going for a bit and see what ur temps do.”

I let it run for about 10 minutes at 1920×1080 with quality set to high. The temp maxed out at 96c.

I’ve found some video’s on cleaning the Radeon 5770. I’m going to try that.

Do you have one of those reference model 5770s? The reference ones have blower fans.
Also did you ever check the frequencies on it?

“Do you have one of those reference model 5770s? The reference ones have blower fans.
Also did you ever check the frequencies on it?”

This is a specially made for Dell Radeon HD 5770. If I remember right, they were made for Dell and to run on their smallish power supply. I’m hoping it disassembles like the normal 5770 – I’m guessing it will.

shawn.1298:

“Try running Unigine Valley benchmark, leave it going for a bit and see what ur temps do.”

I let it run for about 10 minutes at 1920×1080 with quality set to high. The temp maxed out at 96c.

For a stock card that is not being OCed, 96C is WAY to high, either the card is really dirty, or you have a problem, such as poor contact with the HS to the GPU core, or a faulty fan. So unless you are gaming outside in the summer, I would be checking to see what is wrong, cleaning the card is easy and cheap (also check and list your vcore and clock speeds from the card and set them to default). If that does not correct the problem, you might want to pick up some TIM and reapply it to the HS and make sure it has good contact.

I’m thinking its dirty inside. I watched a video of all the dust that can be inside away from view. I’m going to take the cooling part off and clean it and reapply some thermal grease.

I’m hoping it’s not some dumbed down 5770 or something.

Also, if it’s a Dell one, make sure there’s decent airflow in the case, assuming that you have a prebuilt. The couple Dells I’ve had the displeasure of doing anything with were absolutely terrible in terms of airflow.

I’m going to clean the card up tomorrow and will post the results. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

“The couple Dells I’ve had the displeasure of doing anything with were absolutely terrible in terms of airflow.”

I’m building my next one. Each month I buy a piece – case, motherboard, cpu, etc.

What I’d do with that dell you have is buy a new case for it.

Avelos.6798:

What I’d do with that dell you have is buy a new case for it.

This. Grab a new case next, swap the Dell’s internals into it, then just replace the rest piece by piece as it comes in.

“This. Grab a new case next, swap the Dell’s internals into it, then just replace the rest piece by piece as it comes in.”

Thats a good idea.

Yeah you can find some very good quality low cost cases from Cooler Master. Maybe make it look a bit snappy with a side window if you want.

Cases can help airflow, but for lowerend, non-overclocked computers, it is not needed. The stock cooling can be improved much more by putting the time and money into a better heatsink, cable managment, and better case fans. Do not however buy into the 12+ fan cases, it is a waste and will net you more noise than anything else. I run a rig where everything is OCed and a mass amount of HDD’s, inside of a P280 case, which is not known as being a “high airflow” case, rather it is meant for quiet operation, I can run my system with 5 fans if I so wanted, however the change from 5 fans vs 2 is minimal.

If you do get a new case, remember you will have to live and work with it, the cheaper “fancy” looking cases are often cheaply built and a pain to work in. Also, once you start parting a system together, change the PSU first, then work from there. Also, being a OEM computer, you will have to upgrade either the GPU or mobo first, as most of the mobos are BIOS locked and only support a given set of CPU’s. Also, when changing out parts like mobo and CPU, it will reject your windows license key, you will need to reinstall the OS, which needs to be done anyway as it needs all new drivers for the mobo/cpu, while it can be done without, it is going to save you allot of trouble down the line to do it right the first time. When installing, do NOT activate the key, tell it to activate later, as it will never let you install other wise. After install, go to activate the key but check over the phone, it will give you a code to tell them on the phone and they will check and see its a legit copy and give you a new license key for it.

He’s not looking to resetup the computer like reinstalling windows or anything. We’re talking about simply moving all of the parts from the existing case to a new case.

Avelos.6798:

He’s not looking to resetup the computer like reinstalling windows or anything. We’re talking about simply moving all of the parts from the existing case to a new case.

Yes, yes he is.

shawn.1298:

I’m building my next one. Each month I buy a piece – case, motherboard, cpu, etc.

After which it was suggested to upgrade one part at a time, starting with the case. Which can be done, if you know which parts to change first and the problems that can come about by trying to reuse the same OS.

TinkTinkPOOF.9201:

Cases can help airflow, but for lowerend, non-overclocked computers, it is not needed. The stock cooling can be improved much more by putting the time and money into a better heatsink, cable managment, and better case fans.

Since he’s already getting a new computer, just grabbing a new case would definitely make sense, since he would be able to do the cable management and get more case fans, all in a case that will likely be better in the first place.

I do agree that you should spend a decent amount on a case, though, if you want something with fancy looks. If you don’t mind something simple, a Source 210 for $40 isn’t a bad choice.

TinkTinkPOOF.9201:

Also, when changing out parts like mobo and CPU, it will reject your windows license key, you will need to reinstall the OS

This can be sort of hit or miss. I was able to drop my laptop’s HDD in my desktop, run driver sweeper+install new drivers, use it for 4 months without issues, then put it back in the laptop, driver sweeper+reinstall drivers again, and it was fine. I’ve talked to others who had the same luck. However, there are also a lot of people who didn’t get so luck.

Edit: Yeah, order can really matter, though.
Case > PSU > CPU/Mobo/RAM (Depending on what he has atm) > GPU is likely the best way to go.

Fermi.2409:

Since he’s already getting a new computer, just grabbing a new case would definitely make sense, since he would be able to do the cable management and get more case fans, all in a case that will likely be better in the first place.

I do agree that you should spend a decent amount on a case, though, if you want something with fancy looks. If you don’t mind something simple, a Source 210 for $40 isn’t a bad choice.

This can be sort of hit or miss. I was able to drop my laptop’s HDD in my desktop, run driver sweeper+install new drivers, use it for 4 months without issues, then put it back in the laptop, driver sweeper+reinstall drivers again, and it was fine. I’ve talked to others who had the same luck. However, there are also a lot of people who didn’t get so luck.

Edit: Yeah, order can really matter, though.
Case > PSU > CPU/Mobo/RAM (Depending on what he has atm) > GPU is likely the best way to go.

If he is building new, or upgrading over time, yes, a new case is a good investment and even if upgrading at some point probably necessary for fitment. However, if he is just looking to improve his current computer until he builds his new one, he would be better off with a new HS or fans, which could be moved over to the new build. As most computers are far more limited by the small stock HS’s or thermistor fans than out right CFM potential.

Also, if you know what to look for and shop around, you can find good cases, such as a Lian Li for 40-60 bucks, I picked up my P280 for $60 because I shopped around and waited. There are allot of good cheap(er) cases on the market if you know what to buy, but most people go for flash and looks over function, because they have never had to work inside a computer case before.

Running the old OS with new hardware can be done, however it opens the door for all sorts of problems and conflicts with the new hardware/drivers. It is always best to do a new install as it can save massive headaches down the line.

And as for upgrade, it might be a GPU or all situitation, as if its older hardware, such as core2 and DDR2, upgrading would mean new mobo/CPU/RAM all at once. However, regardless of this, the PSU should be the first thing when upgrading OEM’s

Same card, same problem. Problem for me started with the patch 3 weeks ago. When i start the game Gpu temp just starts to rise really fast. Other thing i noticed, is that the interface sometimes loads really slow. Cant see skill bars for a few sec, and some UI elements are transparent. Strange this is that this only happens in PvE areas, as in the WvW maps temperatures are normal,even if there are 100+ people on the screen. All other games are working fine. In SWTOR all max settings GPU temperature never gets above 60c…Graphic card is clean, no dust or anything, and running at PCI-e bus x16.Some help would be really great…Thanks

I cleaned up my graphics card as instructed in this video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D6dsQM3q8Q

Now when I run Unigine Valley benchmark, I get and average of 25.5 FPS and a score of 1047. The temperature maxed out at 67c. This was using 1920×1080 true color mode.

I’d say between removing that big clump of dust off the fins of the cooling unit and removing the old thermal compound and reapplying the new, fixed the heat problem.

Thanks for the help!

When it comes to temperature problem in PC’s ..a little TLC is all thats ‘usualy’ needed

@Keats.9125
Do what shawn.1298 did and see if it fixes the issue.

I will say one thing, that video ..not the best to use as reference. The guy is obviosly not well versed in what he’s doing. I mean cotton wool, not the best thing to be using as it leaves bits behind. A pillow case as a work surface ..nooo. And doesnt seem to be using the right sized screwdriver to start with, and he takes the screws out in and puts them in in a circle and not in oposites(like u would a car wheel, or a Engine cyclinder head to the block). He uses waaaaay to much thermal paste, and by looks of it, unscrewed the VRM or VRAM heatsinks which didnt look like it was neccesery.
I dont mean to rip into the guy, cudos for him doing it for his 1st time, but yea, not a good reference :P

Keats.9125:

Same card, same problem. Problem for me started with the patch 3 weeks ago. When i start the game Gpu temp just starts to rise really fast. Other thing i noticed, is that the interface sometimes loads really slow. Cant see skill bars for a few sec, and some UI elements are transparent. Strange this is that this only happens in PvE areas, as in the WvW maps temperatures are normal,even if there are 100+ people on the screen. All other games are working fine. In SWTOR all max settings GPU temperature never gets above 60c…Graphic card is clean, no dust or anything, and running at PCI-e bus x16.Some help would be really great…Thanks

I thought mine was free of dust, but you really can’t see it unless you take apart the card. Look at the video I linked to in my post above.

SolarNova.1052:

When it comes to temperature problem in PC’s ..a little TLC is all thats ‘usualy’ needed

@Keats.9125
Do what shawn.1298 did and see if it fixes the issue.

I will say one thing, that video ..not the best to use as reference. The guy is obviosly not well versed in what he’s doing. I mean cotton wool, not the best thing to be using as it leaves bits behind. A pillow case as a work surface ..nooo. And doesnt seem to be using the right sized screwdriver to start with, and he takes the screws out in and puts them in in a circle and not in oposites(like u would a car wheel, or a Engine cyclinder head to the block). He uses waaaaay to much thermal paste, and by looks of it, unscrewed the VRM or VRAM heatsinks which didnt look like it was neccesery.
I dont mean to rip into the guy, cudos for him doing it for his 1st time, but yea, not a good reference :P

He also forgets to plug the the video card fan back in at the end. Its just flopping out side of the card as he screws it back together. Its really not necessary to even unplug the fan. What I liked about the video is that it showed you have to unscrew the x bracket and how to remove the cooling unit. The other videos started with, “see I’ve already removed all the screws…” So no, its not perfect but it certainly sufficed for a dry run. I pretty much knew what to expect.