Guild Wars 2

I’m pretty sure that even with a 100 000 $ computer, you couldn’t run the game in WvW without lag and acceptable ftps.
The setup you gonna buy looks good enough to run it but don’t expect to run it at full details and get 60 fps.

hoegarden.4287:

I’m pretty sure that even with a 100 000 $ computer, you couldn’t run the game in WvW without lag and acceptable ftps.
The setup you gonna buy looks good enough to run it but don’t expect to run it at full details and get 60 fps.

Some setups can do it, but it does require some expensive hardware (And expensive is relative, before someone tries to argue :p )

It will run GW2 ok.

however i wil lgive u some advice on how to optimize ur build with a few simple changes.

CPU: get the K version (4770K)
Motherboard: Get a Z87 board
RAM: Get 1600mhz or higher with a CL9 or lower.
CPU Cooler: get a good aftermarket one. Haswell (Intel 4XXX series) is hot.
GPU: A 760 is a better buy now than the 670.

Also, I don’t recommend buying a factory overclocked graphics card (OC).

abomally.2694:

Also, I don’t recommend buying a factory overclocked graphics card (OC).

Why pray tell?

abomally.2694:

Also, I don’t recommend buying a factory overclocked graphics card (OC).

Vid cards are almost the same silicon lottery as cpus, except manufacturers do more binning for the better chips on the better cards (HoF, Classified, Lightning being the top 3), then the rest of the chips from wafers is somewhat of a toss-up. EVGA would be a good example as their Classified cards are binned for speed + overclock as I stated above, but their SC/SSC/FTW cards are binned only to make sure they run at the required speeds. Then you have the reference cards which are a crapshoot and not binned.

Now that we know some chips are binned for certain cards, there is always a possibility of an unstable chip, regardless if it met the specifications for speed on that card in their factory, the instability is not noticed until the consumer has the card running real-world apps. Outside of that though, depending on price it tends to be better to get a slight overclock if possible through a certain binning process. Or go for the best binned chips provided (I mentioned the 3 primaries in the first paragraph).

Behellagh.1468:

abomally.2694:

Also, I don’t recommend buying a factory overclocked graphics card (OC).

Why pray tell?

Because components can degrade with overclocking. I simply don’t trust that the components will maintain stability as time progresses.

This is not always the case, but I prefer to avoid that possibility and it may in fact be the cause of some of the GPU crashes we see here in the forums.

Degradation is a good concern, but only really if you are pushing voltage past a certain point, otherwise you are looking at a long lasting card without issue.

And since I doubt OP will be using an MSI Lightning, Galaxy HoF, or EVGA Classified under Liquid Nitrogen or Liquid Helium, I don’t see much of a threat of degradation

OC cards are priced a bit higher to cover the warranty costs for failures. So it is in the manufacturer’s self interest to make sure those parts are stable at those speeds. eVGA has a 3 year warranty on all their cards.

So what’s better for the end user? OCing themselves (because even stock clock cards come with the tools to do it but you void your warranty) or buy one that the manufacturer OCs themselves and stands by it with a warranty for $10 more MSRP?

Behellagh.1468:

OC cards are priced a bit higher to cover the warranty costs for failures. So it is in the manufacturer’s self interest to make sure those parts are stable at those speeds. eVGA has a 3 year warranty on all their cards.

So what’s better for the end user? OCing themselves (because even stock clock cards come with the tools to do it but you void your warranty) or buy one that the manufacturer OCs themselves and stands by it with a warranty for $10 more MSRP?

Depends on the mfg. Some mfg’s like EVGA allow OCing and even replacing heatsinks and the like, so long as when you send the card in for RMA it has no physical damage and has the OEM HS reinstalled.

I had one I sent back to them that was WCed, OCed to hell and had a custom BIOS flashed to it, talked with their support and was told so long as when they got it back it had the OEM HS/BIOS and there was no damage from the WCing that it would be processed. Sent it in and in a few weeks got a new card as a replacement.

So some times it pays to get a card from a better mfg with better support, but I would also not get the factory OCed cards, often times not worth the money are they are all priced close to the next tier of card, which offers allot more, however, sometimes you will find them on great deals or rebates.