Mushkin Black 16gb 1600 | 500GB Samsung 840 Evo |2×2TB CavBlack| GALAX 980 SoC |
NZXT Switch 810 | Corsair HX850 | WooAudio WA7 Fireflies | Beyerdynamic T90
Oh kitten , I missed that.
It is known that GPU whine can subside with use when first running, but that sounds like the fans. That’s odd, don’t have that issue with the ACX cooler, that’s for sure.
and GW2 does not use 1G VRAM at 1080p unless you are super sampling and have your character limit above medium. The Most I have ever seen GW2 for vRAM was 760~MB. (Sampling – Native, CharLimit – Low, CharQual – Medium, Rest on High/Ultra).
a DirextX 9 game is never going to use more than 1 GB of RAM on a single monitor.
MSI AfterBurner must be lying then, I’ve seen 1.1GB of use @ 1920×1080 ;D No SuperSampling if I remember correctly. Of course my char limit would be maxed out though, why on earth would I have it on Medium :P
http://www.youtube.com/embed/JF2ICUz-IK4?vq=hd1080
Said screw it, recorded that with NV ShadowPlay showing 1.3GB use alongside my settings used in video. The GW2 myth about GW2 never using more than 1GB max is rubbish, granted it took a few minutes and some running around with camera looking in various direction, but the point remains. Look at the vram @ top left Be sure to play the vid in 1080p.
Obviously not the norm not around larger groups of people, but the point is still there.
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Actaully it was, 5 Trojan.MSII if you wonder why it was 5, it was because I downloaded the files 5 times.And 1 Trojan.Dropper. So, Yeah! Enjoying game.
Malwarebytes AntiMalware and Microsoft Security Essentials should be viable free alternatives Other quality choices would be NOD32, Kaspersky, G-Data, F-Secure, Avira if you wish for paid.
Just be sure to keep decent software just in case of incidents like this.
After several users were spreading false info about GW2 never eating more than 500MB vram I investigated and running the detailed preset will push 1Gb @ 1920×1080. Theres absolutely no sense in purchasing a card with under 2GB for a modern pc (keep in mind for gaming) unless it is an HTPC or office pc.
We have threads under this discussion over at Overclockers.com and Overclock.net showing graphs for point of comparison.
For instance, my Yamakasi Catleap 2560×1440 panel, I CAN run it off my 2GB GTX 680 Lightning, I most certainly can, but maxing out games like BF4 will hit a vram wall and introduce stutter at that res. Then again, I also wouldn’t want the 128-bit card either, at least not for gaming.
Highly highly highly recommend looking at another video card, one offering 2GB of VRAM for use if you plan to play @ 1920×1080, this goes alongside any other game you wish to play. GW2 is known to eat up near 1GB of VRAM @ 1920×1080, so if you had hopes to play other games on the new pc, you would be sorely disappointed. Hitting that vram wall in any game will show you no mercy and will suck so hard. 2GB is the sweet spot for 1920×1080 and 3GB/4GB for 2560×1440.
Agreed, just do an i5 upgrade (4670k). The vid card obviously you can still use as that will handle all current games on the market.
I missed it, ASUS made an announcement in an interview it is indeed a TN panel, though they claim it to be a high quality TN compared to the normal TN’s on the market. The pricing sits at $800 though, lol.
I’ll be awaiting the 30" 4k displays, 39 would be too big to have sitting directly in front of me. 27" is more than enough as it is, lol.
I really couldn’t tell you, the VG248QE is the only publicly known CURRENT panel that is on the market to accept G-Sync. ASUS recently unveiled a 27" 2560×1440p panel that is 120Hz and uses the G-Sync module, but they have not stated if it’s TN, IPS, or PLS, that looks promising.
If he got the VG248QE he won’t need to resell Buy the G-Sync kit, unscrew backing from monitor, pop it off, disconnect monitor speakers and hook up G-Sync module, then put the backing back on the panel. Voila, G-Sync monitor.
wish i could get an release date on those upgrade kits.
Q2 of this year
If he got the VG248QE he won’t need to resell Buy the G-Sync kit, unscrew backing from monitor, pop it off, disconnect monitor speakers and hook up G-Sync module, then put the backing back on the panel. Voila, G-Sync monitor.
Which panel did you pick up?
Why not purchase a quality 27" 2560×1440 panel be it IPS or PLS? If you play GW2 and other MMOs you won’t need more than 60Hz/60FPS anyway.
Examples are Yamakasi Catleap, Achieva Shimian, Crossover 27Q, or a PLS such as the QNIX QX2710. The PLS panel offering near same image quality as an IPS along with viewing angles, but the ability to be overclocked on the stock PCB such as the older Catleap 2B panels that go for $1,000 to this day.
3D seems to be dying down as of late, and 1920×1080 is slowly dwindling with 2560×1440 being the current “norm” or “mainstream” panels after they took the market by storm with the Korean panels such as the Yamakasi, etc a few years ago.
Glad both of you got it sorted
First I’d like to start off by saying you need a net upgrade, jesus that is slow!
Secondly, where are you located in the world? What company for inet? What are your system specs? Is a firewall blocking ports?
At least it is working as it should have from the start for you. Enjoy the game
I was wrong, the h60 does more for cooling than the 212, but I still highly advise against it and get a quality air cooler be it BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 2, Noctua D14, Phanteks TC14, or something like those if you want to spend in that range.
I also agree on the OCZ, get a Corsair or Seasonic unit, you cant go wrong with either.
For starters, drop the H60, those all in one coolers from Corsair are crap and unreliable. If the H60 was your choice, grab a CM Hyper 212 Evo that will get about the same cooling I believe.
Drop the ram to 1600… unless you are doing memory intensive tasks that target your memory speed or pushing benchmarks(which you arent since an h60 was your cooler choice).
Mobo and SSD are fine, though I would look at MSI boards or even an Asrock Extreme 4, I also say stick with the 256Gb, if you want to drop to a 128 I say get a standard 840 or 830 for cheaper since they lack the writes of the 256Gb and higher drives.
Uhhhh,
- gw2 has active threads on all 6 cores, that is pretty far from a single threaded game.
- math fail, %80 =\= %100, gw2 is not topping out on any cores.
GW2 has about 50 Threads in all, but only 1 main thread that actually runs the game. If you open your CPU details in Prefmon you will see how many gw2 threads there are, and you will see that the main thread lives on a single core and is the one that is pushing that #2 core to about 80%.
that IS your bottleneck.
If he only wants to instigate because he thinks his budget hardware is top of the line “better be able to run EVERYTHING”, just ignore.
Something quick to try, restart your computer, open the BIOS, Load Optimized Defaults, then Save & Reset.
Then when Windows loads up launch GW2 and see what happens. Someone had the same issue over at GW2Guru and that solved it.
Example shown under UEFI BIOS in image below upon clicking Exit.
Extra RAM isn’t bad, but I’m assuming they set you up in a 3x 8GB config, in which for applications to take advantage be it 3D Modeling, you are being slowed down, even if by a small margin with suboptimal speeds. Dual channel requirements you met with 2 of the sticks, but the 3rd stick “breaks” that so to speak, that is why it is generally stated to stick to 2x or 4x sticks to stick to dual channel for your board.
If your 3D projects actually take USE of 24GB, then I think you should just look at a 4th 8GB stick, just to get the most from a performance aspect. Otherwise 16GB should be plenty, unless as I said, you know that your 3D projects are large enough to take up the 24.
It’s good you found a source of BSoD, you should just look at Microsoft Security Essentials as a free replacement that you can set and forget in the meantime. Drivers can always cause crashes, but I don’t think your crashing is hardware related. I want to say it’s software related.
It’s 24GB for RAM, but that may be screwing him over in general, regardless of his game issues. I would take out that 3rd 8GB stick of RAM that GeekSquad told him to get, and run the 2 8GB sticks left in slots 1 and 3.
Are you sure that all your drivers are 100% up to date?
Could I make a suggestion? Check the prices over at XoticPC vs. that Razer. Look at the Sager branded laptops
Better to give us too much than not enough info
My apologies, lmfao, I was thinking it was your post, but it was Avelos’s post for MSI.
It doesn’t matter the brand, if you bought it new you SHOULD have received a recovery disk. For trying win7, when you format and enter Win7, let Win7 download the drivers it needs, just go to nvidia.com and download the latest drivers. Then try the game.
That is assuming everything else that can be thought of is already exhausted. You have 2GB for the VRAM, so you shouldn’t be hitting a VRAM wall.
Just for kittens and giggles, if your 690 came factory overclocked or you overclocked it yourself, drop the overclock and underclock it slightly. A quick Google search showed this issue to be caused by graphic card instability. And your 2GB 690 GPUs might very well be having issue there. But, you shouldn’t be hitting your 2GB vRAM wall, which is something else that could have this issue, but this game only uses from what I’ve seen up to 1GB, so you are still free 1GB of VRAM there..
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You have your “System Restore” disk from MSI that came with the laptop to reformat/re-install Windows 8 as if you bought it new, correct?
Simply try reformatting with Windows 7 and see how it runs Guild Wars 2, if you have the time on your hands and want to try it, I say attempt that route. Worst comes to worst, it doesn’t work and you can easily throw in the System Restore disk that came with it to format it back to it’s stock setup.
For starters list your complete computer specs, including Operating System. Also, be sure ALL your drivers are up-to-date with the latest drivers.
Visual lag is perceptual, same with audio. Just as an example, if someone has duller hearing, they could say that my DT990’s or HD600 running on an Schiit Asgard2 amp sound the same as a pair of Logitech headset they bought from Walmart…. It’s not THEIR fault, it’s simply what THEY hear and perceive, regardless if I may be able to pick out certain things in the different ranges of sound, their ears simply cannot pick it up.
Of course, lag comes in many different forms, but, it all contributes to what one person will perceive. That being said, I have to ask…. Where EXACTLY in the game are you getting 20-30 fps?
Are you lagging in PvE areas? Dungeons? PVP? WvW? When you say lag, do you simply mean your frames are dropping to 20-30 and you consider that too low? Or when you move rotate your camera, it feels as though the game has to catch up to where you move to, similar to a slideshow?
Realistically you should be able to run it fine on low settings with your setup at stock settings.
Bitfenix Prodigy mAtx edition or Bitfenix Phenom mAtx
Another vote on the BitFenix Prodigy, beautiful case.
Yesh yesh, we know that Intel is top of the class here, it’s common knowledge. And we also know that Intel gets better performance for wattage, you can use a Kill-A-Watt to test for yourself. (Eg. AMD’s FX-8350 generates around two-thirds as much performance per watt compared to Intel’s Core i7-3770K. Gap widens in Intel’s favor once overclocked, 8350 becomes far less performance per watt)
That’s why you must overclock if your CPU and motherboard are able to, because, you know…. ’murica.
you can overclock and fx6300 till 4.2 ghz with an decent pc housing with enough vents i oced it to that with an antec 903 (5 vents)
Don’t know if troll…. Anywho, case only matters to an extent of having enough airflow, outside of that how many vents you have on a case is irrelevant assuming your case fans are decent.
As an owner of 3 of the VG248QE panels, I am well aware of Lightboost and have followed it since it’s inception, having owned several BenQ LB panels. However, Lightboost will wash out your colors, that’s the downside to using it.
Since I Googled it for you….
Looking back at the presets now, generally the ‘Standard’ preset yielded the best image quality. The white point was always within a good range and different gamma modes were selectable alongside RGB sliders (default values 100 per channel). After lots of discussion amongst ourselves, fiddling with the brightness, gamma modes, colour channels and contrast (under various lighting conditions) we settled for the following to use as our test settings:
Picture Mode= Standard
Brightness= 36 (adjust according to preferences and lighting)
Contrast= 50
Gamma Mode= Gamma 4Red= 96
Green= 97
Blue= 100These settings gave a fairly rich and well-balanced image.
If you want better picture quality, pick up a Qnix QX2710
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Supports it just fine. The issue that you will have @ 1440p will not be GW2, but other games. Your video cards run with 2GB VRAM, attempting to max out other modern games you will hit a vram wall. 3Gb+ is a good minimum for 1440.
It would do just fine, the biggest thing is making sure where you order from has a good RMA service.
For instance, in the States we have NewEgg as a large computer outlet, HOWEVER, their RMA service for motherboards is horrendous, especially in regard to bent cpu pins (Outside of that, NewEgg is known for their good customer service). Amazon on the other hand, offers a far superior customer service experience with RMA.
Run a quick speed test to Dallas, Texas, United States and see what speeds you would be getting regardless.
When you get a chance and have the money to spare, pick up a 256GB modern SSD, or a 128GB if budget restricts it, you will thank me later. Samsung and Intel are the top 2 for reliability
Ya it looks good, simple tweak in MSI ClickBiosII can make your 3570k jump to 4.4ghz
I have a 3570k @4.4ghz with gtx760 and im getting 30-40 fps at wvw zerg, high/ultra settings
I would advise you to overclock manually. I would be very weary of the voltage change they auto that to.
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Ankaa, go to speedtest.net and run a speed test to Dallas, Texas and select SoftLayer as the provider. That will give a rough estimate.
Good thing EVGA has legendary RMA service.
If your settings are off playing Guild Wars then they were off when you were playing fps. Your OSD settings should stick to all around use that best suits YOUR eyes, otherwise google some OSD optimizations maybe at pcmonitors.info, or get a spyder calibration device.
For RAM take a look at a company called Avexir, they have some interesting LED designs that you can choose the color of, so in this case you can get it in white.
Completely your personal taste really, and IMO I like a nice white setup compared to the normal black/blue and black/red setups you normally and regularly see. The blue fittings will look good mixed with the white tubing.
Monsoon fittings are pretty great, I myself am partial to XSPC Compressions simply for the black chrome look, but I can tell you if I wasn’t so partial to the dark black chrome that XSPC uses as compared to Monsoon’s lighter looking dark chrome, I would be using some white monsoon fittings myself to mix and match with the UV Blue tubing I use.
The tubing size though, completely dependent on how thick you want the tubing. 7/16″ × 5/8" caught my eye as the size that I personally like the look of, it’s not real thick, it’s easy to work with, and looks just right to me.
If you plan to start off just cooling your cpu, a great amount of space will open up inside your case with that Noctua gone, that’s the great part about water cooling setups!
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Quick question, do you work in retail?
If so and approved by Intel’s Retail Edge list, you can pick up a 4770k for $79.99 or a 4930k for $159, both decent chips depending on the price.
For those that do not have access to getting these chips free, be it for review or other means, I always advise the Retail Edge program if you work in retail for as close to being free as it’s going to get.
https://retailedge.intel.com/50/welcome/
Deal 1
I7 4770k with McAfee LiveSafe
Rock Legend: $79.00 USD
Rockstar: $99.00 USD
Producer: $114.00 USD
Deal 2
I7 4930k with McAfee LiveSafe
Rock Legend: $159.00 USD
Rockstar: $179.00 USD
Producer: $194.00 USD
I’m actually still somewhat new to water cooling myself
As far as gunk though, none of that should appear with distilled + biocide/killcoil and tubing that is plasticizer-free such as XSPC HighFlex or PrimoChill Advanced LRT.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/2590#post_20348102
Good example of what can happen with using both colored coolant + tubing with plasticizer.
That wouldn’t be bad. When figuring all this in for the Photon, just make sure you get the D5 Photon pump/res combo, as it is the one that will facilitate the D5, whereas the standard Photon is simply a res with no pump connection. With the standard you would have to route tubing from pump on it’s own stand to the res on it’s own stand.
I know I said it earlier, but please stick with distilled water and killcoil/biocide for the liquid, don’t hop onto a train with “coolants” as they will gunk up your system. Only way to use those colored coolants without your gear being stained or gunked up is to do a complete teardown of your rig once every 2-3months, meaning you open up the blocks and hand clean the gunk out of the channels. Downside, the radiator you can only hope isn’t gunked up as it’s not easy to get cleaned if it is.
(Plus side is we have people who have run distilled water + killcoil for 2 years and their systems are still strong, and upon a complete teardown at the 2year mark, their blocks look to have minimal wear )
In case you were thinking of hooking it all up in one go, once you have gotten to a point where you order everything, when you get it, measure the tubing for your case of course, but assemble it on a table, cardboard box, etc. outside the case and let it run for a while. I tend to just run my loops for 2 hours for leak testing, but some people like going much longer and it is safe practice to do so.
I really can’t think of much more outside of what’s already been said over at Overclock.net. Just keep in mind water cooling is a hobby, not really something you “just do”. So take your time where needed to assure you have a properly set up system. Oh, and welcome to the world of water cooling. Those AIO kit users can suck it with their faulty crap pumps, etc.
My apologies for not clarifying ^^
Think of it like a pump stand already in use by companies like Swiftech, but with a plastic ring to hold the res in place.
http://i.imgur.com/IJD7mhr.jpg
EXTREMELY crude drawing, but I think it illustrates what I mean. You can go about it like that so that the mount covers the D5 pump at the bottom of the Photon, just make SURE you make all your measurements in the case for room for the tubing, etc. Don’t want any tubing getting crimped due to a tight bend and restrict waterflow.
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Wow I missed this, you can mount the Photon vertically and without the standard res brackets by either fashioning your own backet with a loop end to attach, or, use black zip-ties at the lower and upper portion, making sure the res is snug.
I would steer away from EK products though, they come under constant fire over @ HardOCP, XtremeSystems, and RealRedRaider as far as quality is concerned. Aquacomputer, Koolance, Swiftech, and XSPC are the 3 I personally try to stick to when it comes to blocks.
(edited by sobe.4157)
I’ll take your word for it, I’m taking the 7970 back out tonight.
This seems like something from our talks and ability to at least semi reproduce it your best luck would be attempting to speak to AMD’s driver dev team about looking to fix it. I’m unsure if anything on the game-side can help anything.
I’m just letting you know. If you aren’t interested in FPS games as your PRIMARY for Lightboost technology, I would grab a QNIX QX2710. Just keep in mind games like Skyrim can exceed the VRAM limit and you may not have an enjoyable experience. I just want to make sure you are fully aware. Outside of that grab a Glossy or Matte screen and enjoy, they can be overclocked via Toasty’s CRU tool, many people have gotten them to 120Hz with no artifacts, so I’m fairly certain you should be fine achieving at least 100Hz. Just keep in mind the overclock is NOT guaranteed, you won’t know what overclocks you can achieve until you get your monitor.
That’s my opinion at least, if all you do is play MMO, I would just grab the QNIX 2560 × 1440 panel. The screen real-estate is GREAT and the color quality which is comparable to IPS is simply stunning.
What drivers are you using? The beta drivers?
Yes because those are the drivers that support the r9 280×. But I feel the driver revision is irrelevant. The bug has existed long before 13.11 catalyst came out, so its either a bug AMD never fixed with the drivers or a bug with the gw2 engine itself in regards to Radeon 7xxx series cards.
I asked because my 7970 is running fine with the official (non-beta) drivers.
I just tested the Catalyst 13.10 and the 13.9. No difference.
An official statemant would be good. Some kind of orientation.
I would actually send the AMD Dev team a heads up to look into this. I don’t know if they will do anything since only 3 people seem to be having this issue, but contacting them would be a good start on what would be causing these graphical conflicts that are ruining your gameplay experience.
What drivers are you using? The beta drivers?
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