What happens if you reinstall the game or copy one of the working installs off of the house’s other working computers? This has fixed crashing issues for me in the past in other games.
Yep i know…… should go for at least i5 or i7 … i3 sucks..
i3s are (currently) great budget picks. They were even better when I got mine ~9 months ago. They might go the way of the Phenom II as the new generation of consoles come out, though, if games become more multithreaded.
I bet that i have better performance than you in GW2.
With an FX-6300? I wouldn’t be too sure. Too bad there’s no ingame bench to test this sort of thing, because I really would like to compare some different hardware configurations/resolutions in a fair way.
Anyway like i said if i just lower detail my FPS are 45+ even really huge fight it does not go under 40FPS.
What’s your definition of ‘really huge fight’? I’m honestly curious.
Edit: Also I saw this above and want to ask:
I want to play BF4, i want to play Crysis3… THIS CPU destroy i3 or even i5 while streaming BF3 on max setting 720P.
Are you playing@720P and streaming the same, or playing higher (1080/whatever) and just streaming the 720P?
FX 6300 is cheaper than i3 2***/3***/4***.
An FX-6300+mobo(+cooler) will be the same as (or a bit more then) a 3220/3240/etc.
It’s basically between if you want more cores for games that are more heavily multithreaded or more powerful cores for games that aren’t. If you want to play GW2, going Intel is the wise move.
I know that a lot of people think that AMD CPUs sucks.
AMD CPUs suck in terms of single thread performance, which is still pretty important.
2) “1TB 5400RPM”; slow as heck. Get at least 7200RPM or preferably kitten.
5400 can be slow, but it works fine. It just means that stuff will load a bit worse; far from unlivable. Not to mention the fact that it’s going to be kitten hard to find a 7200 RPM HDD in a laptop for any sort of reasonable budget.
TC, I’d say to get a Lenovo Y510P. Either the $800 model or the $950 model will work fine, the biggest difference being that the $950 model has a 1080P screen where the $800 only has 1366×768. I have a pair of friends with this laptop, one with each model, and it works fine. The one with the 1366×768 screen says that he runs on medium settings in WvW, and it’s decent enough framerate wise. The other one hasn’t done WvW yet, but he’s been doing PvE on high without issues (besides bigger world boss groups).
http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/y-series/y510p/
That’s not really going to cut it for good WvW performance.
But yeah, do you really need a laptop? You can do a lot with $800 if you get a desktop.
$20. I got $30 of Amazon credit from another game, then never bought any gems.
And yes, my oppinion is that you don’t need that setup. You may need it for your high resolutions, but I don’t need that. Neither the high resolution, nor a Titan SLI. Period.
I (pretty much) agree with that. 2560×1600 would be nice, although I’d need a much better computer for it and the necessary monitor would be rather on the big size for my tastes. But, if you want that higher resolution, Titan SLI or something of similar power is necessary.
Well I didn’t actually try to explain the Nvidia Titan to you, after you were talking about it. As you probably know there are more people reading this thread, why didn’t that come to your mind?
The fact that you quoted me, said a sentence, and started rambling on about the Titan certainly made it look like you were making your point at me.
I am pretty sure you won’t need the horsepower actually, even if you are running 2 displays. Might get handy if you are playing games while downsampling the resolution, but again that is cost unefficient, not to mention the bill you are going to pay in the end for electricity if you are doing so.
To sum it up shortly: it is hard to believe for me someone is really going to do so, as I said.I am sorry if I offended you for paying only discredit for the most powerful pc setup at the moment, but frankly this is my oppinion and I fear you cannot change that as long it is as it is.
So what you’re saying is that in your opinion that much horsepower isn’t needed. The issue is that it’s not a matter of opinion, it’s a matter of fact that you need multiple Titans (or 7990s, or so on and so on). to push higher settings at high resolutions (ie, 7680×1600 or 1440). Hell, even a titan can’t max games at 2160P, which is much more tame then a tri-monitor setup.
Then you say ‘it is hard to believe that someone would do that’. However, it’s a fact that people will. Exactly for the same reason why you would buy a Ferrari or 911 instead of an Prius or a Buick or something else equally godawful – you get a much better experience.
Anywho, I’m not ‘offended’. I don’t really care what you think about a dual Titan setup. And you’re right, it’s horribly cost inefficient- I completely agree. But, games will require that much horsepower once you get to a certain point in terms of resolution, and people will want to play at those resolutions, which means that multi-Titan (or 3/4 CF/SLI high end other GPUs) will be necessary.
Edit: I am being sort of a kitten, and I apologize, but still, having that much horsepower can be a complete necessity if you’re trying to run high resolution/multimonitor setups.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
II found it already hard to believe that someone would truly run a Titan SLI, except for testing or benchmark issues. Just for information: a Nvidia Titan is an Enthusiast class graficscard and probably the best card of them all atm, cost factor about as much as a complete upper middleclass pc. Running 2 of them at the same time would be something like running a car with an aircraft engine, in my humble oppinion. You get the power, but never actually need it. But anyway, as been said before me: since GW2 is mostly CPU and not GPU dependant, it is probably not helping to stack more graficspower anyway.
I know exactly what a Titan is.
If you’re trying to push higher resolutions or multiscreen setups, or maintain 120 FPS/some other higher framerate, additional graphical horsepower can come in handy. There are many people who could use Titan SLI- just because you don’t see the use for it doesn’t mean that other people don’t.
Zerg fights are just really demanding, especially map zerg fights when running at higher settings. I personally go through and knock down shadows, reflections, character model quality, post processing, AA, and shaders when I go into WvW, and I generally get good enough performance. Just lower a few settings and you should be fine.
Not sure what your issue might be. One of the buddies I play the game with has double Titan SLI and a 3820 i7 and I asked what kind of FPS he got. He said… “When everyone else is crying in wvw, I’m laughing.” so… I guess that’s high fps ._.
I find that somewhat hard to believe. A 3820 is outperformed by a 3770k, or even a 4670k when it comes to single threaded power, and both of those CPUs have issues in big zergs. He’s either
I think you have just proved that SSDs have NO bearing on GW2 load times….
Storage device speed has a LOT of bearing on loading speeds. Going from an aging 5400 RPM HDD to a new 7200 RPM drive about halved (or better) my loading times, especially for LA.
You can get by with an i3 just fine. With the exception of the larger t1 zerg fights, the framerate will stay at a playable levels, even if it does get really choppy. Even in the huge 3way map zergs I’m able to play decently.
An i5 is definitely ideal, but if you want to save money an i3 will do well enough, even if you may have some issues with larger zergs.
How fast is your internet? Also, try restarting your router/modem and computer.
Upgrade the CPU+mobo, then go for 8 gigs of ram. Aim for an i5.
Eh that’s only partially true. The game is just unoptimized for multicore performance plain and simple. The next iteration of AMD’s processor ( Steamroller/ Kaveri) are due out at some point by the end of this year, with a rumoured 25 – 30% increase in single threaded IPC, which unfortunately is the problem with this game, so the solution might lie there.
My word. If this is true, I may think about getting a new CPU/Mobo sooner then expected.
Anywho, any optimizations that made the game run better would of course cause an improvement for AMD CPUs. However, anything short of much better multithreading most likely wouldn’t help excessively, because of AMD’s relatively poor single core performance.
I just patched it without issues on a 95 mbps connection.
Just get a big enough flash drive and put the whole folder for the game in there. You should be able to launch it straight from there.
If it tries to download the game, just move it onto the computer where it would usually be installed (c:/Program Files/Guild Wars 2, iirc? That’s where mine is, in any case) and run it from there.
Get a new CPU+mobo. Ideally an i5-4670k.
What’s your internet speed? Go to speedtest.net, run a test, and post the result.
How are you connected to the internet, via ethernet or through wifi? Are there other people on your network doing things online?
Fermi, unless ur getting a H100 or equivalent AIO, a top of the range air cooler will perform just as well and cost less than a lesser AIO water cooler, with the only downside being their massive size.
For example:
The H60 cost the same as a NH-D14 but the D14 performas better.
The H80 costs £10 more than the D14, performs about the same.
The H100 costs £20 more than D14 and performs better.
Exactly. If you’re dropping $1500 on a computer, you should spend the extra couple bucks to get a really nice cooler.
http://i.imgur.com/mFNDQOD.jpg
Really nothing special, but I like the look of the dragon wing legs, and I think that the burning greatsword matches it.
I still like windows 7 and have used both. It will be supported a long time you can still use XP.
XP is far behind Vista/7/8 in terms of features. As for 7 keeping up with 8, it’s already not getting DX 11.1. Really, getting an OS that’s a version old is just a foolish enterprise in any sense.
As for the build, there’s no reason to spend that much on an air cooler, go for water. Also, games are already taking advantage of more then 4 cores. Crysis 3 did, BF4 will. At this point in time, an i7 is looking like a good buy. For ram, there’s no reason not to go for 16 with that sort of budget. Even if it’s not really useful now, this sort of PC will easily last 5~7 years, when 16 gigs of ram will be nice.
Change Windows 8 for Windows 7, just becouse i prefer W7 :P
There’s no reason to get Windows 7 these days. It’s not going to be supported for as long, is slightly more resource intensive, and Windows 8 is better when it comes to navigation.
If you really hate the start screen, just get one of the programs to get the start menu back. I’ve actually found that I prefer the start screen.
So yeah, do this guy’s build, but with Win8.
If the game crashed, it would close completely, but go back Thu the character select screen. If your laptop was overheating you would see a drop in performance as the CPU/GPU were throttled, before a screen telling you that it’s shutting down due to thermal overload. This sounds like you’re just DCing
A 1% decrease won’t help much. The best way to prevent overheating is to clean it out and make sure that there’s plenty of airflow underneath the computer.
See if you can squeeze in a 4 GB card instead. It’ll last longer. Games are going to be chewing up more Vram as we go into the future, so 2 GB may not be quite enough in a year or two.
Didn’t say OCing was hard, just “a cheat” where a user can shoot themselves in the foot if they blindly try to match some other card in a review or “extreme OC” instructions on some other forum somewhere.
It’s not a cheat, it’s entirely legitimate. I suppose that someone can shoot themselves in the foot, but just be smart about it and it should be fine.
Boosting the clock of a GPU is as simple as moving a slider. I can see people being worried about it, although you’ll be fine, especially if you don’t change from stock voltage, although you won’t get nearly as high. Actually, I somewhat wonder where the card would compare just topping out on stock voltage, although this would really depend on the individual cards. Overall, though you can do fairly decently, even without getting a card with an excessive cooler, like MSI’s Twin Frozr IIIs. Overclocking the snot out of the card will put it ahead of 770s. A 760 is a relative walk in the park.
That being said, the 7950 is still the better card, because OCing is easy. Sure, if you absolutely don’t want to OC at all, don’t do it, but it’s pretty simple to do safely, and you’re losing out on free performance. Going for a 760 would be a better option in that case.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1HlY1
Something like this should do rather well. If you can reuse an HDD/OS/whatever you can trade the GPU up if you want, although a 7970 is more then enough to play GW2 well.
You can probably do better for the money, but I opted for a decent bit of convenience sort of stuff- full modular PSU, SSD, etc.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
In what flippin universe is an HD 7950 faster than a GTX 760 because it’s not the one I’m living in.
As for price the cheapest HD 7950s are $200-$220 after rebate while the cheapest GTX 760 is $250 (prices at NewEgg, not counting shipping). And sorry if I don’t consider PowerColor a quality manufacturer. So it’s more like saving $30-50 for a card 10% slower. Maybe that is a good trade off. But you certainly aren’t getting a faster card.
You can get Sapphire or Gigabyte 7950s for $200 easily. They’ve been selling for that much for weeks.
As for which is faster, they trade blows at stock, but a 7950 will blow past a 760 when OC’d. 7950s can go past 680 levels once you get them overclocked. That depends on the binning of the card, of course, but a 7950 is most certainly a better card then a GTX 760.
Another option.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1H6uu
If you need an OS you could drop the solid state, although I don’t recommend it (nothing like hitting the power button and being in game in about 30 seconds).
Drop the 760 for a 3 GB 7950. It’s faster and $60 cheaper. Also, CM isn’t usually too great a brand to go to for PSUs, which may be something to consider.
I didn’t notice that the TC needed a monitor, so a slight adjustment to my build:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1H6XF
If an OS is unnecessary:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1H6ZM
ATI 7890HD OR Nvidia 670TX
Epic wat
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1GWC6
Posted this a couple weeks ago, but it went down in price so I upped the PSU a bit. Bump it up to 4.2-4.4 GHz and it should run the game quite nicely.
Just one, a Guardian. Working on an Ele, and then I’ll go for Engineer or Thief after.
Yeah, check your temps and get back to us. It sounds like your computer is getting close to overheating, so it’s being downclocked to cool off, which kills performance.
Get an i5 over an i7 unless you’re doing a lot of photo/video editing/rendering. The HT won’t make much of a difference in games as of yet because they don’t take advantage of all of the cores, with a couple exceptions.
Also, whatever you get, go for a k version so you can overclock it. Intel CPUs have linear gains when overclocked, so you’re pretty much getting quite a bit of extra performance for your dollar.
Okay actually.. this is actually the last question because I have two friends pushing me back and forth between that case above and..
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107
Just pick whichever you like the look of better.
Best low noise case made. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020
Really good case for that price range. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031
Another couple of really good choices.
All of these cases will do fine, just pick whichever you think will fit you the best.
Was it 660tis or 670s that were released unstable@stock clocks/voltage? I remember that it was one of them, and usually a 13 mhz underclock would fix the issue.
The Source 210 and HAF 912 will both have plenty of space- it even says on the 210’s page that it’s got 160mm of clearance for CPU coolers. Also, someone left some other recommendations in your Gamefaqs topic, all of which would be fine
A mid tower will be more then big enough. A full tower is absolutely massive and unnecessary unless you want a WC loop or something along those lines. What sort of size constraints are you reading about?
The build you posted is pretty decent, once you opt for a 4670k. For cases, the NZXT Source 210 is pretty well recommended, and I would personally suggest that you look at the HAF 912- I love mine.
I can’t comment for you, but I do find LE. incredibly annoying after a very short amount of time- they’re really distracting. If you ready want them at some point in the future, thigh, you can always pick up another couple case fans w/ LEDs
OC your CPU a bit and you should see some performance gains, but the real issue is the fact that you went with an AMD processor.
I haven’t had issues running the game with HT on. Slightly different scenario, though, since I don’t actually have enough physical cores to cover the game+other processes.
Reviews of of the 212 Evo are great but Haswell heats up rapidly when overclocked and I’ve seen reviews with rather high temps on a 212 Evo.
It’ll be hot on any cooler. The 212 is still the best air option for $30.
And I agree with No One, 500 watt is pretty much minimum (eXtreme Power Supply Calculator Lite) with that setup at stock clock. 650 watt will be more than enough for overclocking.
Not sure how you were putting it in, but I got to 410W using the desktop version of the same calculator.
In general, on a single GPU system, a quality 430-450W PSU is plenty (may need more for AMD, some of their CPUs draw a lot). 500 is more then enough.
The only issue is if the TC ever decides to CF, in which case something like the Rosewill Hive 650W may be a better option. For one card, though, that PSU is great.
And to quibble, no DVD drive for the Win 8 DVD. Yes you can use the official Win 7 USB install tool from MS as long as you have access to another PC with DVD drive and an ISO ripping utility.
If TC’s got a disk drive already, he can just rip the Win8 disk and use Universal USB Installer (fantastic program) to put it on a flash drive and install. That’s what I did, and it worked great.
Since the price was at the limit of the $1000 i didnt bother argueing over the PSU. However they are correct when they say its deffinatly the minimum u would want.
I normaly recommend a 650W, you dont really want to be runing ur PSU at close to max limits all the time.
The PSU is fine. A 650W unit’s enough for SLI/CF- you don’t need nearly as much power as you seem to think that you do.
Only thing I disagree over is I think the cooler is on the low end if you are planning to overclock at all.
The 212+ EVO is a fantastic cooler, especially for $30. It’ll do about as well as an air cooler can. Yes, some are better, but at the price point it’s awesome. Also, at least with Ivy, it’s easily possible to get to 4.6-4.8 GHz with safe temps on it.
Thanks, it’s rare to see people agreeing on a PC build so I will definitely go with that. My daughter’s fiance is going to build it once I get the parts.
Thanks very much to Fermi especially and the rest of you as well for your advice!
No problem, and enjoy. It should last you for quite a while before you need anything else.
Ibuypower or cyberpowerpc
Dear lord no. Both awful sites. Use ecollegepc.com if you must.
In that case, order the build I listed on pcpartpicker (or give it a bit and someone will probably list some improvements), bring it in, and have them put it together. Their prices are rather high for parts.
You really should build it yourself. You’ll do much, much better. It doesn’t really take that long and it’s not even hard at all. Watch newegg’s guides on Youtube and you should be good to go.
The FX-Series when Over clocked can stand up to the i5’s pretty well.
Not for gaming.
Don’t let anyone here say AMD is not good enough for this game, cause thats just BS.
Wrong.
G.Skill is one of the best Ram Manufactorers for the Buck.
RAM is RAM. Going for the cheapest DDR3 1600 from a company you trust is the way to go.
I would avoid an Intel Motherboard, go AMD for an AMD Cpu
You would avoid an Intel socketed mobo on an AMD build? The CPU won’t even go into the socket, for god’s sake.
You can get Win7Pro OEM for 119~, or Win8Pro(Full) for 149 from Newegg. Both are ok, But Win7 still handles gaming better then Win8 IMHO.
Why would you ever waste the money on a Pro version of Windows unless you needed the features? Go OEM. Also, Windows 8 is slightly less resource intensive, so you’ll run games better with that. And there’s no reason to get Windows 7 these days, anyway.
I didn’t realize that the mobo in the i5 build only had 4 ram slots (I just switched some parts in someone else’s build to make both Intel builds), so I swapped them out:
i3 build w/ 4slot mobo
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1ChL9
i5
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1ChSM
I also switched both PSUs to the CX430 since the CX500 went up $12.
So the absence of a disk drive would be okay? I don’t see much reason to have them anymore.
I haven’t had one for months and don’t really miss it. I’ve only needed one 2 times since I built my desktop, and the issue was easily solved with my laptop. One of the times was to install Windows, the other to rip a CD that I borrowed from my cousin.
You’ll need a flash drive to install Windows without a disk drive, though. You rip the iso and use Universal USB Installer to install it to the flash drive, then plug that into the computer and boot off of it. It’ll act as a disk.
@Fermi, yes the cooler isn’t necessary but there is little harm and no cost saving right now between the CX430 and the CX500. It’s not like he’s getting an 850 watt PSU that’s $50 more. So unless you are part of the shaft Microsoft totally or postpone getting Windows by misrepresenting yourself to Microsoft crowd then you still will have to pull $25-30 out of thin air for that GPU upgrade after getting rid of the cooler.
The CX430 is actually being strange right now, I’ve been playing with a lot of builds and it sometimes shows up as $25 and sometimes kitten, not sure why.
But I did manage to get the 650ti in for $650, easily. Cheaper ram, no cooler, and no disk drive made it easily manageable, especially since the other guy had picked such an expensive 7770.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1BtOD
Edit: Although, the TC said that he only was only gunning for medium settings, so a good bit of change could probably be saved with an i3 build. I run the game on high/ultra and only really lag in world bosses/WvW zerg fights (I’m on SoR). The WvW zerg lag is decreased considerably (to a point where it’s pretty doable) by dropping to medium with shadows/reflections off and character models on lowest, with culling off. World bosses, I never lagged enough to care enough to drop the settings at all.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
Windows 8 has been received horribly OP (made for touch screens), you’ll want to look into whether you want 7 or 8 for yourself.
I hated Windows 8 until I actually installed and used it. It’s great- I can boot in 30 seconds (to the desktop, ready to go), the new task manager is great, and the only different from Windows 7 is the start screen instead of the menu, which is actually sort of nice. You can fit much, much more on there. If you really want the start menu back, you can always just get a 3rd party program for it.
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