EGVA SuperNOVA B2 750W | 16 GB DDR3 1600 | Acer XG270HU | Win 10×64
MX Brown Quickfire XT | Commander Shaussman [AGNY]- Fort Aspenwood
Pets:
1. Better AI
2. Better ability to hit moving tergets
3. More customization/the ability to improve pet stats. Pet armor, perhaps?
Traits:
1. Remove Signet of the Beastmaster and make signets always affect the player
2. Piercing Arrows and Empathic Bond should be Adept
3. Eagle Eye should effect SB as well
“4) Improved traits overall, other classes got major improvement to most of their weak traits”
Weapons:
1. Decrease LB 2’s channel time by ~1s or increase damage
2. Boost damage of GS auto
3. Increase range of lunge on GS 5 by a little (100, maybe).
Fastest computer I know of which is used by SolarNova sporting an Intel i7 3930K clocked at 4.6 GHz with a GTX 780 still gets crippled.
cpu speed is determined by architecture and clock rates. If the OP manages to get a Haswell cpu to clock 4.4 GHz then it will be faster than Solar Nova.
Only for single core performance; iirc, the 6cores don’t really beat the quads per core. Overall the hexcore demolishes.
As for a build, TC, something like this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2uaXP
Burst is kind of useless in pve, dps rules and i havent seen a dps maximizing build where gs has a place.
Eh, it’s not always necessarily about completely maxing everything; having fun is where it’s at, and the GS is a fun weapon to use.
Also, great to hear that they stack. Thanks!
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2uaXP
This would work well. You could probably drop the GPU lower and opt for a better CPU cooler, but it’s your call.
The power supply can also be dropped to 500 or even 450 and save some bucks.
No, a 500W PSU cannot handle an OC on the i5-4670K. It will heat up and eventually pop, like mine did. 600w is the min if you are going with a 4th gen K.
A quality 500W PSU is perfectly fine for a single card build. 600 is excessive- you could likely go for 2 midrange GPUs with that.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2uaXP
This would work well. You could probably drop the GPU lower and opt for a better CPU cooler, but it’s your call.
The power supply can also be dropped to 500 or even 450 and save some bucks.
I would’ve gone for the CX500, but the CX600 was actually like $3 cheaper when I made the build.
One is 10% increased damage when the foe is burned, and the other is 10% increased damage to foes afflicted with conditions. If the foe is burned, do you get the increased damage from both, or just one?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2uaXP
This would work well. You could probably drop the GPU lower and opt for a better CPU cooler, but it’s your call.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
67G onhand right now. I had ~205 2 days ago, before getting a new set of gear for my Ranger and buying two character slots.
Throw a cooler on there and OC it, you should be able to get to 4.5-4.7 GHz easily, which will provide another nice framerate boost.
Your GPU link doesn’t bring me to a specific card, but as long as there’s enough space it should be fine. Grab a CX430 with the card and you’ll be good to go.
iirc Windows 8 is a little less heavy on the CPU, which is somewhat nice. Complaints about the start screen hold no weight (you can change it if you’d like, or just use it; I’ve actually found myself preferring it to the start menu). App support as far as I’ve seen is fine; judging it on things that people generally won’t use isn’t necessarily the best thing to do- it should depend on the the TC will do.
Looks fine to me, although I do still suggest Windows 8 over 7.
But even then if I upgraded it a lot of people complain of lag still even with i5’s and i7’s, so it’s turning me off into even considering upgrading.
Eh, I personally think that the reported large zerg performance for a pretty highly clocked i5 is reasonable enough, given what’s going on. And it’s much better in ‘normal’ high load areas, like LA.
I’ve actually been thinking about getting a Xeon E3-1230 V2 (more or less a 3.7 GHz 3770), since it’d be a pretty solid boost in large group situations. It’s all really what sort of performance you’d like and what your dollar is worth, though.
It’s because your CPU is rather weak.
Some sort of Ducky or a Razer Blackwidow for a backlit keyboard. Otherwise, whatever rubberdome kb you can get for cheap; once you start sending a bit more, getting a rubberdome keyboard just doesn’t make sense, especially when you can go mechanical for just a little bit more.
I use one of the original Dell Quietkey keyboards, which is a rubberdome board from the late 90s, and is supposedly one of the better rubberdomes in terms of how it feels. I’m looking to upgrade to a CM Quickfire XT with brown switches, though.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPS_panel
I personally went for it- I got an Asus VS239 for $160, and love it.
Yeah, it’ll run, but not very well if there are more then a couple people around.
Windows 8 is perfectly fine. I’m not sure why you’re saying that it’s not suitable for daily use, but I’ve been using it without issue for 6 months now. The biggest issue that people have, the start menu, is even solvable without issue.
Honestly, getting an older OS doesn’t really make sense, since the newer one is likely to be supported longer. I can’t comment on performance issues or anything, since I’ve had none, but imho Windows 8 is the way to go.
You said that a 4670k+mobo would run around $420. The CPU is only $220, so the mobo must be $200, unless you’re including some higher end air cooler in the $420.
Yeah, that’s the entire computer, although I didn’t include a wireless card and/or a disk drive- they’re not really necessary unless you have a specific need for them. If you need both of those, go for this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2mNVR
As for performance, nothing will keep a ‘high’ framerate in big zergs, but that computer should manage to keep things at ~20+ FPS, from what I’ve seen around here and assuming that you OC the CPU, which is easily playable in such situations.
No, going with a 4670k really is the best way to spend your money atm for sure. But why are you pretty much recommending that people spend $200 on a mobo? A decent Z87 board is only around $130-140.
You didn’t really mention a specific budget, so I just made this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2mFLW
If you’re looking to spend less, it’s pretty easily possible to save some money, especially in the GPU department.
You can and should build your own. The 2 Main things to look for are a Z87 1150 Socket Motherboard, and the i5-4670K. Both will run about 420~ and be about 75% of the total cost of the PC.
Why are you overspending on a mobo by so much? At most mobo+CPU+212 EVO should be $400 all together.
Also, TC, that prebuilt really isn’t a bad deal at all.
@Avelos
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2mxLs
Comparable, and new.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
Eyefinity.
15char
Everything on at least high, reflections on terrain and sky, character culling settings are both low.
Not bad. So those Gen1 i7’s really hold their own still :-)
Yeah, they’re still a bit ahead of the newer i3s (especially the higher end i7s), which do well enough.
I agree. Drop the SSD for a better cooler and a better GPU. Dropping such a large amount on a QoL increase when your budget isn’t that high in the first place isn’t the wisest course of action. Once you have enough gaming power, then get an SSD.
Hmph. I’ll have to check it out; iirc I’m running 10/30/30/0/0 already so it can’t be that much of a change from my current groove, which will be nice.
Indeed, but there are still other options to consider, which is always smart to do.
Also, you don’t nearly need to spend that much on a mobo. You can get something pretty decent in the 120-130 range.
Fermi, going to the i5 would have costed about $140 more ($440 vs $300), I probably wouldn’t have gotten as nice a motherboard and put out of budget.
No idea where you were buying from, but even for Mobo+CPU+RAM you can do an i3 for like $210-230 or an i5 for around $280-300.
The i3 doesnt have 4 ‘real’ cores, so it would loss some performance there, but its at 3.5ghz, where as the i5 4440 has 4 real cores but runs between 3.1ghz and 3.3ghz (meaning in Gw2 it would run at 3.1ghz)
You can’t just directly compare clockspeed like that.
Anyways, the i5 wins in terms of single thread power, even with the clockspeed deficit. Go with that and don’t bother with a Z87 board; once the CPU is too weak for things, buying such an old CPU would be a waste of money (if you could even find one at a reasonable price).
An i5 beats an i3 clock for clock, as well as having two additional cores. HT won’t make it like you’ve got 4 cores; it’s usually more of a boost (I want to say 20-30% but I’m really not sure) when everything is taken advantage of. HT just takes advantage of processing ability that isn’t being used to run additional calculations on top of the primary ones being made so the CPU is more fully taken advantage of.
The best CPU for the game will be a highly clocked i5 or i7- they’ll do about the same.
If you did the i3, you don’t need a Z87 board. That being said, get the i5. It should do quite well.
No thanks. I like my server.
Intel i3 3220 probably get’s better FPS than AMD FX 6300.
Realistically, they trade blows. In general, I’d recommend the 6300 over an i3, even for GW2. That being said, it’s generally not that hard to fit an i5 into the budget.
However, the end result is if building for GW2 buy Intel otherwise build AMD’s FX series (better at Multi-Threading).
Eh, I wouldn’t make such sweeping generalities. Intel’s generally still the better current option for gaming, and there’s other games that AMD doesn’t like at all.
Also, depending on what you upgrade from, going Intel may even be cheaper.
At max settings a phenom is not the limiter in wvw. Your GPU will be.
Wrong.
The shots taken were targeted for lowest results to emphasize worst case scanario.
How would that even be CLOSE to a worst case scenario?
‘worst case’ would be something like 3 map zergs fighting over a garri in a BL, not 15 people in a mediocre champ train.
Edit: An ‘average’ scenario where the computer is actually stressed would be a pair of 20-30 person zergs fighting.
yea, the FX9 is an overclocked version of the FX8. But if the OP wasnt open to OC’ing, then the extra cost ‘might’ be worth it.
Same goes between the FX8320 and FX8350.
:-)
Yeah, I double checked the prices and yanked that out because some of the FX9’s are close enough in price to potentially be worth it. I hadn’t looked at them in a while, so I was running with somewhat out of date information.
Look through my past posts on the issue. I have plenty of screen shots on this forum demonstrating 30-40 frames in large zerg scenarios running on my system.
Your definition of ‘large zerg’ must be absolutely patheic.
Oh look, it is.
Neither of those even APPROACH a large zerg. Come back when you can keep a decent framerate in an actual zerg, not a group of 10-15 people.
Not to mention, you’re running a lower resolution, which takes some strain off the GPU for GPU-intensive activities.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
For an MMO, 64 people is nothing. And unless you’re playing Battlefield 2, I really don’t believe that you’re actually keeping the game at that high of a framerate.
Try using older drivers, perhaps 13.4.
None. Bring forced to get armor one massively grindy, incredibly expensive way isn’t at all appealing, so I won’t do it. So much for WvW, I guess.
If they make it more reasonable to get, with more ways to obtain it, maybe I’ll get some. Otherwise, no.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
Go to the start menu/screen and type ‘dxdiag’ (without the quotes). Hit enter, and if it asks if it can check something just hit yes. On the first tab (“System”), say what it says for Operating System (3rd one down), Processor (4th from the bottom) (type and number, ie “Intel Core i3-3220 CPU”), the amount of memory (which is right below where it says processor).
Go to the second tab (“Display”) and say what is says after Name in the Device box at the top left.
Computer specs/OS?
Bitfenix Prodigy mAtx edition or Bitfenix Phenom mAtx
Another vote on the BitFenix Prodigy, beautiful case.
Sadly, that’s a fair bit above what I’m looking to drop on a case. This is just something to use while I’m in a dorm, so I don’t need to deal with having quite such a large computer.
I’ll probably end up switching to a Corsair case once I’m out and can blow a good bit of money on my computer, but I’ll leave the expensive purchases until then.
I have the Fractal Design Core 1000 on my second PC. Its not the best thing ever when it comes to its build(bottom has some flex into it) and cable management options but the aesthetics is pretty good IMO and you can’t go wrong with it for that price.
These are the main things that push me towards the Line-M, honestly. Even barring the cable management, it’ll be making a couple trips annually to school and back, and I may drag it to a friend’s house on occasion, since it’s not quite as large. Heatsink clearance is a nonissue, since I don’t plan on upgrading to anything that would really need an aftermarket heatsink any time soon. Even if I go for a Xeon E3-1230 V2 the stock one should do well enough.
I’ve been thinking about downsizing my case recently. Although I love my 912, it’s really a bit big for what I need currently, especially given that I have an mATX mobo and a pretty small GPU.
I’ve been looking, and so far the two most attractive options have been the Fracral Design 1000 and the Rosewill Line-M:
Fractal:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352032
Rosewill:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147166
I’m leaning towards the Fractal, since I prefer the cleaner front look, and the buttons on the front of the Rosewill aren’t exactly attractive from an aesthetic sense. I also like the full mesh front on the Fractal.
I’m looking at spending around $40, since this isn’t the case I plan on using permanently. Is there anything better/worth getting around that much? I looked at Newegg/Amazon, and most of the cases were either subpar from a looks standpoint, too tall, or too expensive, but I easily could have missed something.
The only other real restriction is that I only have 14.5" of vertical clearance, so the case can only be ~ that tall at the absolute most.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
i have like 80 fps in pve zones 35-60 in wvw i big fights it drops to like 28 but still playable on medium high settings
Your definition of ‘big fights’ must be absolutely pathetic.
Cases can help airflow, but for lowerend, non-overclocked computers, it is not needed. The stock cooling can be improved much more by putting the time and money into a better heatsink, cable managment, and better case fans.
Since he’s already getting a new computer, just grabbing a new case would definitely make sense, since he would be able to do the cable management and get more case fans, all in a case that will likely be better in the first place.
I do agree that you should spend a decent amount on a case, though, if you want something with fancy looks. If you don’t mind something simple, a Source 210 for $40 isn’t a bad choice.
Also, when changing out parts like mobo and CPU, it will reject your windows license key, you will need to reinstall the OS
This can be sort of hit or miss. I was able to drop my laptop’s HDD in my desktop, run driver sweeper+install new drivers, use it for 4 months without issues, then put it back in the laptop, driver sweeper+reinstall drivers again, and it was fine. I’ve talked to others who had the same luck. However, there are also a lot of people who didn’t get so luck.
Edit: Yeah, order can really matter, though.
Case > PSU > CPU/Mobo/RAM (Depending on what he has atm) > GPU is likely the best way to go.
(edited by Fermi.2409)
What I’d do with that dell you have is buy a new case for it.
This. Grab a new case next, swap the Dell’s internals into it, then just replace the rest piece by piece as it comes in.
Also, if it’s a Dell one, make sure there’s decent airflow in the case, assuming that you have a prebuilt. The couple Dells I’ve had the displeasure of doing anything with were absolutely terrible in terms of airflow.
Congrats on the win TC!
This indeed.
Games could make the card overheat if it isn’t cooled well enough.
It really sounds like a dust/airflow issue; pull the card out and get all of the dust out, then check the heatsink/fan as outlined by Squishy.
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